Blog Stains – What to do when you dare to be Different in Amalfi & Ravello

My neighbour Laura Thayer from Ciao Amalfi blog absolutely loves the town of Amalfi and has spent a good amount of her time living in the Coast walking and exploring the villages surrounding it.

Who would be better to bring you a guest post about the wonderful places the Secret Costiera has to offer in her corner of the Amalfi Coast? Enjoy her wonderful descriptions and drool over her beautiful photos! Thank you Laura!

 

Top 10 Things to do in Around Amalfi

Right up there with Positano, the towns of Amalfi and Ravello are the most visited travel destinations on the Amalfi Coast. I love the Blog Stains series that Rosa has created, and it’s a pleasure to share some of my favorite things to do in and around Amalfi and Ravello. Most of these activities will take you away from the crowds and show you a side of the Amalfi Coast that many visitors miss. Pack a good pair of walking shoes, because there are some hikes you won’t want to miss! Read on for tips on the best beaches, walks and views in Amalfi, Scala and Ravello.

1. The beautiful beaches are one of the main reasons to visit the Amalfi Coast, but the large Marina Grande Beach in Amalfi can get quite busy on summer days. To escape some of the crowds, take a short boat from Amalfi to the beautiful Santa Croce Beach just west of town.

 

Along the way the boat will stop off at the Duoglio Beach, which is a popular spot on the Amalfi Coast for wind surfing. Santa Croce is a little gem of a beach with incredibly blue water and lots of rocks to explore. There are a two local restaurants that also rent umbrellas and sun beds, which are a nice treat on this rocky beach.

 

Swim over to the Arco Naturale, or Natural Arch, just west of the beach. During the summer, you’ll see brave kids scampering up the rocks to jump off the arch.

2. Few of the travelers to the busy towns of Amalfi and Ravello know that located high in the mountains just between these two popular destinations is a sleepy little town called Scala where you can get a taste of quiet daily life in southern Italy.

Scala is located just across the valley from Ravello and stretches out along the mountainside overlooking Amalfi and Atrani. It is composed of a town center and many hamlets that are connected by a road. Follow the road out of the town center and you’ll visit the hamlets of Minuta, Campidoglio and San Pietro before returning back to the center. It’s about an hour walk, and the first half is entirely uphill. But the bonus is that there are no steps along the way and very little traffic.

 

From the top of Scala in the hamlet of Campidoglio, the view overlooking Ravello and the coastline is spectacular. What’s even better is that you’ll have escaped all the crowds and be able to enjoy the view all to yourself.

3. High in the mountains above Amalfi is the Torre dello Ziro watchtower. Built in the 15^th century as part of the castle defending the sea republic of Amalfi, a hike to this watchtower offers fabulous views overlooking Amalfi and Atrani.

The hike to the Torre dello Ziro begins in the hamlet of Pontone in Scala and takes about an hour each way at a leisurely (summer) pace. Bring a picnic to enjoy at the top!

4. Enjoy the gardens and stunning views from the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Yes, this one is in the guidebooks, but I’m always surprised how many first time visitors or day trippers to Ravello miss out on enjoying this splendid villa just because it’s not located right in the center of town. Follow the signs from the main Piazza Duomo, which will take you along a quiet walkway through a residential area to the tip of the promontory that the town sits on high above the Amalfi Coast. Plan about 20 minutes for the walk, which does involve some stairs and inclined paths along the way.

Upon entering the gardens you’ll find a little ticket booth opposite a beautiful cloister. You’ll be given a detailed map and all the time you’d like to explore the grounds. The Villa Cimbrone is famous for the Terrace of Infinity (above), with its—literally—breathtaking views of the dramatic, sheer drop down the mountainside and panorama overlooking the Bay of Salerno.

5. One of the most enjoyable and surprising hikes around Amalfi is up into the Valle dei Mulini, or Valley of the Mills, which is located above the town. Along the way you’ll see the ruins of the mills that once produced Amalfi’s famous paper. (To learn more about Amalfi’s fascinating paper history, visit the Museo della Carta, or the Paper Museum, in town.)

Pack a picnic to enjoy next to the cool mountain stream. Even in August it’s freezing cold and wonderfully refreshing to take a dip in.

When you reach the top of the valley you’ll think you’ve taken a wrong turn and ended up in a rain forest rather than the Amalfi Coast. The forests are thick and dark and the waterfalls so very unexpected. This is the other side of the Amalfi Coast that few visitors have the pleasure of discovering!

6. In September, the town of Scala hosts their Scala Meets New York Festival, which presents concerts, exhibits, special events and a memorial service honouring the victims of the terrorist attacks in America on September 11^th. While the Ravello Festival attracts most of the attention, don’t forget to check the schedule for this festival, which also draws some big names.

Last year the star of the festival was the Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli who gave a concert in the main Piazza of Scala. All events for the Scala Meets New York festival are free and open to the public.

7. If you’re up for a lot of stairs, enjoy the hike from Scala to Amalfi, which takes you through the hamlets of Minuta and Pontone.

  

Along the way between Minuta and Pontone, you can see the ruins of the 12^th-century church of Sant’Eustachio. While you can’t visit inside the ruins, you can walk up close and see what remains of the interior walls and columns from the pathway.

 

Below the sleepy little hamlet of Pontone the stairs become steeper as you descend down the mountainside to Amalfi. It’s a gorgeous view of Amalfi from above with the blue sea beyond. When you get to the bottom, it’s time for a swim!

8. If the Marina Grande beach scene in Amalfi is a little too crowded for your taste, walk to the other end of the town’s harbor to the more hidden Le Sirene Beach. This beach has two entrances to the sea between rocks and has strong sunlight until late in the afternoon during the summer.

Swim west just a little ways and you’ll find the Grotto di Sant’ Andrea to explore!

9. Long before the S.S.163—the famous Amalfi Coast road—was constructed in the 19^th century, the only way to move about on the coastline besides by boat was to climb endless numbers of stairs. The town of Amalfi has many small hamlets located up in the mountains surrounding the town, and the walkway connecting them to Amalfi is called the Via Maestra dei Villagi.

From Amalfi follow this walkway west out of town and be prepared to climb up and up to reach the hamlets of Pastena, Lone, Vettica and … up and up to … Tovere located high above the town of Conca dei Marini.

10. Just a short walk from Amalfi is the small village of Atrani, which is much less crowded and chaotic during busy summer days than its better known neighbor. This picturesque little town sits at the base of a river valley and has a wonderfully peaceful feel. If the pebbly beaches of Amalfi hurt your feet, head over to Atrani where you’ll find a black sand beach.

On the right side of town is the colorful Collegiata di Santa Maria Maddalena. On July 22^nd for the feast day of Mary Magdalen, Atrani hosts a fun summer religious festival with a procession and fireworks on the sea.

Blog Stains- Dare to be different in Naples

Few people are as passionate about a place as Bonnie Alberts from Napoli Unplugged is about her adopted city Napoli.

She shares an extensive guest post about the deep heart of  Naples wandering off the beaten tourist paths into the soul of the city and walks us through it’s history, it’s culture and into the Neapolitan daily life.

 

A Few of My Favorite Napoli Things
Bonnie Alberts, Napoli Unplugged

Although I know they are all the rage these days and do seem to serve a purpose, I'm not a huge fan of top ten lists. They are like soundbites that if not used carefully, can quickly create stereotypes about a place.

Think about the top 10 for Napoli.  At the top, and I do mean the very top of every Napoli top 10 list you will find "eat pizza in the city in which it was born."  Neapolitan pizza is a national treasure to be sure and an experience not to be missed, but Naples offers the curious traveler much, much more.  There is the food and the wine, the caffè and dolce, world-class museums and ancient monuments, Greek and Roman ruins, churches and castles, parks and gardens, strolls along the water and deep into the quartieri, oh, and what about the views.

And that's just for starters.

A good guide-book (or peek at our website or the Saturday Strolls on our blog) will give you the main attractions.  Things like strolling through Centro Storico and Naples famed Christmas Alley, Via San Gregorio Armeno to see another Neapolitan treasure, the hand crafted presepe.  Visits to the Archaeological, Capodimonte and MADRE Museums, the Royal Palace and the Veiled Christ and tours of Naples Underground.

But  if you've done all that and are looking for more, here is just a small sampling of some of my favorite Napoli things.

 

Sunrise, Sunset

Sometimes people forget what an absolutely breathtaking this city is and the very best time to experience this beauty is early in the morning.

It might seem obvious but you'd be surprised how many people either don't realize the sun rises behind the Vesuvius or don't want to get up to see it.  One of the best locations to watch the sunrise from or better yet, catch an award-winning shot of it (I'm still working on that) is at the Fontana dell'Immacolata on Via Partenope.  From there, stroll down Via Partenope towards Mergellina along Naples seaside promenade, Lungomare.  With the sun at your back, the views of Mergellina and Posillipo are spectacular.

 

If you don't want to get up at the crack of dawn but still want an award-winning shot, head to Sant'Antonio a Posillipo Church. One of the most iconic views of Naples, the setting sun behind you lights up Vesuvius and the city in a way that belies words.

Take the Mergellina Funiculare (another fav of mine) one stop up to Sant'Antonio a Posillipo.  Head left out of the station onto Via Orazio and walk up the hill (also gorgeous views) to Via Minucio Felice.  Follow the road down until you find the overlook.  After you've captured your award-winning shot, continue down until you reach Piazza Sannazzaro.  Great views all the way down!  At Piazza Sannazzaro, pay homage to the Mother of Naples, the fountain of the Siren Partenope in the center of the Piazza.

 

The Intellectual Heart of the City

Not far from Naples famed Archaeological Museum is Piazza Dante.  Big, bustling, and bursting with activity, it is dedicated to the poet of the same name, Dante Alighieri of The Divine Comedy fame and whose bigger than life statue towers over the Piazza.

On the north side of the Piazza you'll find Via Port'Alba, a narrow alley where local bookshops large and small spill out into the street.  Wander along Via Port'Alba to Port'Alba, one of two gates installed during the Spanish expansion of Naples.

From there head to Piazza Bellini and you'll find yourself in the intellectual heart of the city and surrounded by important institutions such as the Fine Arts Academy (Accademia di Belle Arti), the San Pietro a Majella Music Conservatory and several University Buildings.  The statue at the center of the piazza is of course in honor of Bellini - Vincenzo Salvatore Carmelo Francesco Bellini that is, a 19th century Italian composer.  On the south side of the Piazza you'll find Greco-Roman remains from the city’s 4th century western wall.

 

The Two Parks of Virgil

One of the most important and influential writers in history, the man who gave the world the “Aeneid” and whose words guided and inspired Dante, Ovid, and countless other poets, Virgil's footprints are all over this city.  And to commemorate this legend Naples has not one, but two parks dedicated to him.

One sits at the foot of Posillipo hill and the other sits at the top of Posillipo hill, Capo Posillipo, one of the most picturesque districts in Naples.  So beautiful is this district, and to be sure, much more beautiful in Virgil's day, that it takes its name from the Greek Pausylipon which means “respite from pain.”

Perhaps the more important of the two parks is Parco Virgiliano a Piedigrotta at the foot of Posillipo hill where legend has it you will find Virgil's tomb. While you will definitely find a Roman era funerary monument there, that it is actually Virgil's tomb is pretty doubtful. Nevertheless, it has attracted visitors for centuries. Nestled behind the Santa Maria di Piedigrotta Church and next to the Mergellina train station this quaint little park is a quiet haven away from the bustle of the city.

While you are there you can also pay homage to another important writer, the 19th century poet and philosopher Giacomo Leopardi. And don't forget to peek into the Crypta Neapolitana, a 700 meter long tunnel ascribed to Virgil's sorcery although it is more likely the work of the Roman engineer Lucius Cocceus Auctus.

 

 

At the top of Posillipo hill you will find breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples from Vesuvius to Nisida, Bagnoli and beyond at Parco Virgiliano a Posillipo.  Although fairly well-known, I rarely run across tourists here.  Follow the park's circular path to take in the views and you just may catch a wedding party using this picturesque location as a natural backdrop.  And don't forget to look for one of the most recent additions to the park, a bust of Gandhi erected in 2008.

If you visit on a Thursday morning you can catch the chicest market in Naples, the Posillipo Market that runs along the tree-lined entrance to the park.

 

 

John Turturro's Passione

A celebration of the Neapolitan spirit that emanates from Neapolitan music, John Turturro's movie the Passione was primarily shot in Naples poorer neighborhoods, among which is Rione Sanita.

An extremely important area of Naples that once sat just outside the city gate Porta San Gennaro, it was the city's burial center for centuries.  Among its most important treasures are the Catacombs of Naples - San Gennaro, San Gaudioso and San Severo, the Cimitero delle Fontanelle, and the renowned Palazzo dello Spagnolo that was the backdrop for Comme Facette Mammeta - How Your Mama Made You in Turturro's Passione.

The characteristic double staircase known as Ali di Falco (Wings of the Hawk) was the design of Neapolitan architect Ferdinando Sanfelice whose design you can also see in Palazzo Sanfelice just up the street. Other locales in Turturro's film include the San Martino Charterhouse, Castel dell'Ovo, Chiaia's Bluestone Club, the remains of Ristorante Lido Pola in Bagnoli, and the streets of Rione Sanita which were the setting for Pietra Montecorvino and Max Casella's Dove Sta Zazà.

 

Wine Your Way Through the City

The Campanian countryside is well-known for its wines and abundance of vineyards and local wineries, but you don't have to leave the city to experience great wine.  Dozens of wine bars have popped up in Naples recently, especially in the chic Chiaia district along Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, Via Bisignano and Via Giuseppe Ferrigini.  Our favorite is Enoteca Belledonne on Vico Belledonne a Chiaia.

Another great wine venue is Città del Gusto in Naples western district of Bagnoli.  In addition to its restaurant and the Gambero Rosso cooking school, it hosts wine tastings and wine related events throughout the year.

If you happen to be here in May, a week-long celebration of wine starts with an event called Wine and the City. For four days local businesses host events pairing wine with their products, think Wine and Art or Wine and Fashion.  This year Wine and the City runs from 18 – 21 May and is followed by one of the greatest wine shows in Italy and the only one dedicated to wines made entirely from indigenous Italian Varietals.  Held in the Medieval halls of Castel dell'Ovo, Vitigno Italia runs from May 22 – 24 this year.

Still thirsty for more? Passionate wine enthusiasts can keep up with all Naples and Campania wine events and even earn Italian Sommelier certification through the Naples Chapter of the Italian Sommeliers Association,  Associazione Italiana Sommeliers AIS – delegazione di Napoli.

 

Shop with the locals

Naples boasts some sixty local markets, from the nearly 600 stall shoe market at Poggioreale to tiny street markets of just ten or fifteen vendors.

In fact, for many Neapolitans, shopping daily at the market is still a way of life.

Naples is life lived on the street and there is no better place to experience that than at a local market.  One of the very best markets in the city is Naples foremost seafood market, Porta Nolana. Tucked behind the ancient Porta Nolana gate from which the market takes its name, it runs parallel to Corso Garibaldi near the Circumvesuviana station along Via Cesare Carmignano.  While the seafood is in abundance there,  live clams - le vongole veraci, eel - il capitone and the salted cod - il baccalà, you can also find fresh vegetables, poultry, meat and more.  At Christmas time, the market springs to life as shoppers find overflowing tubs filled with the staples of the Neapolitan Christmas dinner, il baccalà and il capitone.

 

A Secret Villa on Capodimonte Hill

Just up the hill from the Real Albergo dei Poveri, the Bourbon Hospital and Almshouse for the poor at Piazza Carlo III and nestled in the ancient piazza Sant'Eframo Vecchio is the 18th century hunting lodge Villa di Donato.

Carefully restored by its owners, magnolias and palm trees in the gardens in front of the Villa create a dramatic entrance to this historic property.  One of only a handful of “house museums” in Naples, the ground floors have become a spectacular backdrop for concerts, art exhibitions and cultural events, while upstairs, well-preserved frescoed hunting scenes on the walls and ceilings are a testament to the pictorial style prevalent during the Bourbon Dynasty.  Privately owned, the Villa is only open during events and by special request.

There are many, many more treasures hidden in Naples just waiting to be found.

Visit Naples, Discover Napoli!

Blog Stains- Dare to be different in Positano

Blog Stains is a new series of posts designed to be useful references for people visiting the Amalfi Coast. I’ll try to bring you fun things to do which may not have been mentioned in the guide book.

10 top things to do in Positano

So you’ve been to Positano, crept up through the clothes store alleys, peeked into the Church and walked geriatric style (in summer) through the bougainvillea laden walkway to the Piazza Mulini.

What now?, you asked yourselves. Is this all that there is to do here?

Of course not! If you’ve tired of laying on the beach watching the world go by or sitting on your balcony admiring the view, Positano offers weird and wonderful activities in and out of season.

In summer:

1. Hire a canoe, paddle boat on any of the beaches or use a floating device and discover the inlets and caves lining the cliffs.

Sneak a look into the opening under the watch tower at Fornillo beach and discover a secret passage way used during the Saracen pirate era.

Head in the Praiano direction and glimpse luxurious villas and gardens from the water 

and swim in hidden caves through to the opening on the other side.

2.       In August, take a full moon walk along the Path of the Gods. The Association GEA offers guided walks with pick up from Positano, transport to Bomerano in Agerola   and a strictly ‘moonlit only’ walk across the mountain path all the way to Nocelle at the top of Positano.  A street party organized with real homemade food  and traditional tammurita dancing  waits to welcome  hikers back.         

Be warned: book early (posters are put up around town or it’s announced on the events page on Positano News)  because groups are kept to minimum  for safety reasons.

3.   Praiano, Positano’s neighbouring village holds the Light Festival for a week at San Gennaro Church at Vettica di Praiano coinciding with the beginning of August. Only a local bus ride away, the piazza is illuminated in a magical play of lights in the show.

(My tip: if you must eat at Praiano please don’t go to the restaurant S. Gennaro just above the piazza. Some places are memorable for the wrong reasons).

4.   In September the Positano Myth Festival kicks off  intermingling local culture and traditions with a series of ballets, concerts, expositions and traditional dances in the most evocative of places. My favourite has to be the traditional tarantellas, a sensual dance to tambourines and guitars. The evening concert on the path of the Gods is also a must see if you like lyrical music.

5.   Unsurprisingly Positano also offers a variety of cooking classes from top chefs in the local restaurants. I will not mention names here as I have not tried them out personally (traditional dishes are a mainstay in our home) but I suggest you stick to local chefs if you want to learn the basics of Neapolitan cuisine. Often notices are put in restaurant windows. Local dishes are very simple and if your budget doesn’t stretch to classes just savor restaurant meals slowly and you’ll soon work out how to reproduce them at home!                       

All Year Round:

6.  Have you ever thought of going to the very top of Positano for views?  Catch the bus to ‘Garritta’ and get off at the Belvedere for a sweeping view of the village. Even better go on a moonlit night to see the romantic sparkle of the lights and share a kiss with your partner.  Best spot for a romantic kiss in Positano!          

 

        

7.  Positano has it’s very own hole in a rock. Situated in Montepertuso (holed mountain), the village just above town, this hole is visible from town and can also be visited in a mountain walk.

8. Walk down to the Fornillo tower through the back way. Although it’s barred to visitors, the panorama of villas,their gardens and Fornillo beach from an angle you’ve never seen before is worth the walk. Take the path to the right in front of Hotel Vittoria (behind Pensione Maria Luisa) and continue to the very end of the residential alley till you come to the mountainside. Then just take the stairs down and admire the wild rosemary lining the path.  

Don’t be alarmed by the apparent wild state of the vegetation lining (and often carpeting) the stairs. This path is not well-trodden by any means and you are very likely to have it all to yourself. But if more people use it, maybe the Mayor will see fit to have the path cleared eventually!

 

9.  A beautiful mountain hike is that which takes you from Positano to S.Maria del Castello. Breathtaking views sweep over Positano and right across to the Golf of Naples  and the islands of Ischia and Procida.

10.   The Valley of  Il Porto is situated in the canyon near Arienzo beach. A shaded walk which has very little sun all year round grows amazing vegetation in it’s own eco-system and is the wildlife oasis to the rare little amphibian. Please tread carefully and be respectful of nature and those who live there.